lay along the deck for you to attach your harness safety line.
They can be made from rope, wire or webbing.
Why Webbing ?
Webbing lies flat so is less obtrusive and is kinder to your deck.
Wire and rope may tend to move or roll under your feet.
Wire can be PVC coated to prevent any damage to your deck but this increases the diameter and therefore exacerbates the ‘roll’ problem.
Rope will need to be either more substantial in diameter or relatively ‘high tech’ in order to achieve the same breaking strain.
4mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 1400kg
5mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL 2190kg
High Tenacity Polyester Jackstay Webbing, MBL = 2000kg
The majority of the jackstays we produce are from the 2000kg webbing but we also supply stronger webbing, MBL 3000kg and 4000kg
N.B. All wire and rope splicing and sewing marginally reduces the breaking strain of the finished product.
Where should Jackstays be fitted ?
There are two main considerations:
1. To be able to clip on to the jackstay line while you are in the cockpit and still be able to venture as far forward (and aft) as possible without having to detach yourself.
This means that the jackstay line needs to ‘overlap’ the cockpit domain (it should at least run by the outside of the coaming so you can reach it from inside the cockpit) It also needs to negotiate a path around or over the natural obstacles such as hatches, lower shrouds, grab rails, cleats, windlasses, bollards etc. so that the person clipped on to the jackstay line has a clear path to the forestay/pulpit (or pushpit)
2. To prevent Falling Overboard
This means that the path forward should be as near the centre line as practicable e.g. inside shrouds, over but commonly around the curve of the coachroof.
Clipping on to a jackstay that is too near the guardrail may result in you dangling in the water, especially if you are outside the leeward rail with the yacht heeled going upwind.
N.B. Jimmy Green Bluewater Safety Lines are manufactured to an overall length of 1.5 metres. This is generally long enough to reach the jackstay when you are standing/walking but prevents you falling as far as other safety lines which could be as long as 2 metres. A 1.5 metre line is also more practical for bracing yourself and less likely to tangle, snag or trip you up. 3 hook lines faciltate the changing of attachment points without becoming unclipped. This may be the only practicable solution in awkward, congested deck areas.
Measuring your Jackstays
Both wire and webbing jackstays should be fitted so that there is a degree of lift in the centre of the line before any significant load is applied.
The height of the lift should be proportional to the overall length of the jackstay.
Webbing that is fitted too loose will allow too much slack when a body weight load is applied.
Wire that is fitted too tight may cause excessive load on the end fittings when under load, due to a ‘bowsing’ effect.
A tight wire jackstay may also make it difficult to get the safety hook under the wire.
Selecting your fixing points
Jackstay strong points should be selected according to the principles listed above.
if there are no suitable fixing points in the right position you may need to fit our Jackstay U Bolts
Standard Sewn Loops for attaching to shackles: we can supply extra wide 9mm stainless steel shackles. The shackle is wide enough for the webbing to fit snugly on shackle pin.
Standard Sewn Loops with extra wide shackle included.
Twisted Sewn Loops – These are for passing the other end around e.g. a stanchion base and back through the twisted loop. This creates a ‘cow hitch’ finish that means the loop will sit comfortably on the deck fitting.
Sewn Lanyard Loops – These are bigger loops to allow for multiple reeving of the lanyard.
Sewn Lanyard Loops – Thes are bigger loops with lanyard included
Sewn Loops with stainless steel ring – lanyards can be spliced onto the ring
Sewn Loops with stainless steel triangle – lanyards can be spliced onto the triangle.
Extra wide shackles make a very strong and secure fastening at one end but it may be difficult to achieve the right degree of tension with shackles at both ends.
Lanyards at one end make the measuring, tensioning and fitting more straightforward.
Subtract approximately 200mm – 300mm from the overall length to facilitate the gap filled by the lanyard.