Webbing Jackstays – Selection Guide

lay along the deck for you to attach your harness safety line.
They can be made from rope, wire or webbing.

Why Webbing ?
Webbing lies flat so is less obtrusive and is kinder to your deck.
Wire and rope may tend to move or roll under your feet.
Wire can be PVC coated to prevent any damage to your deck but this increases the diameter and therefore exacerbates the ‘roll’ problem.
Rope will need to be either more substantial in diameter or relatively ‘high tech’ in order to achieve the same breaking strain.

Strength Comparison
4mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 1400kg
5mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL 2190kg
High Tenacity Polyester Jackstay Webbing, MBL = 2000kg
The majority of the jackstays we produce are from the 2000kg webbing but we also supply stronger webbing, MBL 3000kg and 4000kg
N.B. All wire and rope splicing and sewing marginally reduces the breaking strain of the finished product.

Where should Jackstays be fitted ?
There are two main considerations:
1. To be able to clip on to the jackstay line while you are in the cockpit and still be able to venture as far forward (and aft) as possible without having to detach yourself.
This means that the jackstay line needs to ‘overlap’ the cockpit domain (it should at least run by the outside of the coaming so you can reach it from inside the cockpit) It also needs to negotiate a path around or over the natural obstacles such as hatches, lower shrouds, grab rails, cleats, windlasses, bollards etc. so that the person clipped on to the jackstay line has a clear path to the forestay/pulpit (or pushpit)
2. To prevent Falling Overboard
This means that the path forward should be as near the centre line as practicable e.g. inside shrouds, over but commonly around the curve of the coachroof.
Clipping on to a jackstay that is too near the guardrail may result in you dangling in the water, especially if you are outside the leeward rail with the yacht heeled going upwind.

N.B. Jimmy Green Bluewater Safety Lines are manufactured to an overall length of 1.5 metres. This is generally long enough to reach the jackstay when you are standing/walking but prevents you falling as far as other safety lines which could be as long as 2 metres. A 1.5 metre line is also more practical for bracing yourself and less likely to tangle, snag or trip you up. 3 hook lines faciltate the changing of attachment points without becoming unclipped. This may be the only practicable solution in awkward, congested deck areas.

Measuring your Jackstays
Both wire and webbing jackstays should be fitted so that there is a degree of lift in the centre of the line before any significant load is applied.
The height of the lift should be proportional to the overall length of the jackstay.
Webbing that is fitted too loose will allow too much slack when a body weight load is applied.
Wire that is fitted too tight may cause excessive load on the end fittings when under load, due to a ‘bowsing’ effect.
A tight wire jackstay may also make it difficult to get the safety hook under the wire.

Selecting your fixing points
Jackstay strong points should be selected according to the principles listed above.
if there are no suitable fixing points in the right position you may need to fit our Jackstay U Bolts 

End Options
Standard Sewn Loops for attaching to shackles: we can supply extra wide 9mm stainless steel shackles. The shackle is wide enough for the webbing to fit snugly on shackle pin.
Standard Sewn Loops with extra wide shackle included.
Twisted Sewn Loops – These are for passing the other end around e.g. a stanchion base and back through the twisted loop. This creates a ‘cow hitch’ finish that means the loop will sit comfortably on the deck fitting.
Sewn Lanyard Loops – These are bigger loops to allow for multiple reeving of the lanyard.
Sewn Lanyard Loops – Thes are bigger loops with lanyard included
Sewn Loops with stainless steel ring – lanyards can be spliced onto the ring
Sewn Loops with stainless steel triangle – lanyards can be spliced onto the triangle.

Extra wide shackles make a very strong and secure fastening at one end but it may be difficult to achieve the right degree of tension with shackles at both ends.

Lanyards at one end make the measuring, tensioning and fitting more straightforward.

Subtract approximately 200mm – 300mm from the overall length to facilitate the gap filled by the lanyard. 

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Jimmy Green at the RYA Dinghy Show Weekend

The Dinghy Weekend was another huge success for everyone involved. As ever there was a real buzz around the Palace with everyone involved looking forward to the new sailing season and having tales to tell about their winter exploits – We, Jimmy Green, met loads of new customers, caught up with old friends, sold masses of rope, fittings and sailing kit, and generally had a good time.

We’re looking forward to next year !


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The 2015 RYA Suzuki Dinghy Show

Open Saturday the 28th of February and Sunday the 1st of March. Jimmy Green Marine will be there with an extensive range of clothing, ropes and rigging!

We will be on stand D12 in the Great Hall just the same as last year. We will have loads of new products plus a whole host of your favourites from brands including:

Crewsaver, Selden, Barton, Holt, Harken, Spinlock, Marlow, Liros, Clamcleat, Protect, Velocitek, PSP and loads more

See you there…..

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Halyard and Sheet Selection Guide

Jimmy Green Marine offer a comprehensive range of braided lines suitable for use as a halyard or sheet, but which one will suit you? The length can easily be specified by measuring an existing halyard or sheet and can even be guessed fairly accurately from schematics if you are familiar with your deck layout. The difficulty arises when considering the material to be used, the construction and the diameter of the rope. These factors have a significant influence on the overall cost and performance of your line. This guide aims to help you choose the right line at the right price.

There are many more fibres available for the truly discerning sailor, however this article sets out the 5 most common ones found in our product range. Listed in order from most expensive to most economical they are: Vectran, Dyneema, Technora, Polyester and Polypropylene.

- Vectran is the strongest and most expensive fibre and has very low elongation over time (creep). It is commonly impregnated with a UV stabiliser.

- Dyneema is very nearly equal to Vectran in terms of strength and stretch and is also usually impregnated with a UV protective coating.
The price advantage over Vectran makes this a popular choice with rope manufacturers at the upper end of the market.

- Technora has very high abrasion and UV resistance and is commonly blended into the cover/jacket of a braid on braid line.

- Polyester is the most common fibre with excellent UV resistance, good breaking strains and low stretch characteristics. It is available in a bright monofilament fibre and a softer, matt finish, spun yarn.
Bright polyester fibres are low stretch  e.g. braid on braid bright white polyester.
The softer feel, spun yarn has less strength and is slightly stretchier. Spun yarn is typically used for the cover/jacket on e.g. 16 plait matt polyester

- Polypropylene is the lightest (doesn’t absorb water) and cheapest fibre. However it is stretchy and susceptible to UV.

Rope manufacturers have traditionally used different fibres for the core and the cover in order to make the most of their relative advantages but can now produce even better ropes by blending different fibres together in either the core or the jacket.

The majority of lines are comprised of a braided core and a braided jacket.
The most common cruising lines are 100% polyester (cost effective).
The weight of fibre in these lines is usually balanced equally between the cover and the core and can be spliced using the double braid splice.
Marlowbraid is the exception as it has a 3-strand core which slightly reduces stretch for a very modest increase in price. The downside of this construction is that it tends to flatten around sheaves and winches.

N.B. braided lines with a polypropylene core may make a saving but will be reflected in a marked lack of performance particularly with regard to extra stretch where it is not desirable.

The construction of the cover also has a bearing on abrasion resistance. Generally the covers with a tighter weave or ‘more plaits’ e.g. 8, 16, 24, 32 plait offer a sliding scale of improved wear resistance.

Stronger fibres such as Dyneema or Vectran are required to significantly increase the strength of a line and reduce it’s stretch. Typically, these fibres are used in the core which is therefore much stronger than the cover.
These lines then have to be spliced using the core dependent method which in turn means the weight of fibre in the cover can be reduced.
Therefore the cost is directly related to the strength and stretch which in turn is governed by the amount of dyneema/vectran content in the finished rope.

It therefore follows that the the strongest line for a given diameter does not have a cover and is 100% ‘core’. However, Halyards and sheets still rely on the cover for grip and abrasion resistance in clutches and on winches. The solution is to strip the cover from the core shortly after the winch or clutch. This can only be done with core dependent ropes.

All the fibres mentioned can be blended to produce covers with different properties. Racers may use a polypropylene/dyneema blend for lightweight sheets or a technora/polyester blend for sheets that get through a lot of work. Cruisers are less likely to have sailing condition specific requirements, so, a standard polyester cover heavy enough to give good longevity is usually the best bet.

So how does this help? The full range of lines supplied by Jimmy Green Marine can cater for both the cruisers and the racers. So we have arranged the lines on a sliding scale below to help you decide where to aim. Whether you’re a cruiser looking to strengthen up your lines for a more adventurous outing or a racer looking for a better price point Jimmy Green has a line for you.


Rope Cover Core Stretch
Liros 16plait Matt Polyester Polyester 5%
Liros Braid on braid Polyester Polyester 5%
Marlowbraid Polyester Polyester 4%
Liros Herkules Polyester Polyester 5%
Marlow D2 Competition Polyester Dyneema 2%
Liros Cruising Dyneema Polyester Dyneema 2%
Marlow D2 Racing Polyester Dyneema 1.50%
Liros Racer Polyester Dyneema 1.50%
Marlow GP78 Polyester/Technora Dyneema 1.50%
Liros XTR Various Various < 1%
Marlow MGP Various Various < 1%


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Replacing your rigging with Jimmy Green

Thinking of replacing all or part of your standing rigging? Jimmy Green Marine offer a mail order rigging service for rapid delivery of replacement stays. Here are some tips for making sure you get it right.

Preserve your settings. If you’ve kept a keen eye on your settings and have arrived at the best set-up, you will want to be able to accurately replicate the settings. Mark the existing bottle screws by applying tape to the thread at both ends of the rigging screw. This will allow us to recreate your setting in the trough if you are sending us your wire or allow you to recreate them once the mast is down.

Jimmy Green measure from the bearing edge to the bearing edge (BE to BE) of all fittings. Clevis pin diameters therefore need to be specified separately. If you are ordering a new stay complete with rigging screw, the new stay will be supplied with the original BE to BE measurement with the bottle screw 2 thirds open. When ordering a wire with one end swaged and the other end blank, we will measure from the BE of the swaged fitting to the end of the wire. When ordering a wire with a stud and swaged fitting, we will measure from the BE of the swaged fitting to the end of the stud.

Unless stated, we will send your existing rigging back to you with your new wires. If you are at all unsure of the final specification then please feel free to email photos of your existing fittings so that we can check them for you. We are always happy to load the job into the calculator for you to get a quick quote.

You may be lucky enough to have a rigger nearby or know of a mobile service that can help. However, Even if you have these options, it may be worth using the quick rigging calculator to compare prices. Jimmy Green Marine have a convenient website tool that can give you a quick idea of the costs involved. Simply choose your wire type, diameter, length and end fittings to receive the instant quote.


Turning the quote into an order is easily realised with a click of the button. We aim to stock all parts and hope to turn orders around within 5 days even in the busy part of the season.



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How should my helmet fit?

The ski season is now in full swing. Skiers and boarders alike will be pulling their kit out to see how it has faired in storage. Typically, it won’t look as good as you remember it when you put it away. Assessing the condition of clothing is relatively easy, we are familiar with our size and happy to choose our own style.

However, Helmets are not an everyday item and require a little closer scrutiny as an integral part of any skiers/boarders safety kit. Please see a brief summary below of how to review your existing helmet and what to look out for when purchasing a new one.

You own a helmet:
Take a moment to reflect on last years ski season. How did the helmet fair? Was it involved in any impacts? Whether it rolled off the table at lunch, you dropped it in the bar or you hit a tree, all the bumps add up to fatigue in the structural integrity of the helmet. Any impact on the shell should be reason enough to consider a replacement. Visible scratches and dents are good reminders but not all the damage will be visible. How are the liners fairing, a good seasons use can crush the padding so check it is all in good order and ready to keep that helmet snugly attached to your head.

Thinking of getting one:
Shape is the most important thing here. If it is the right shape, it will be a comfortable fit. A comfortable fit will enhance the chances of a safe fit. Some pointers below:
– The helmet should sit right down on the top of your head. It needs to make contact!
– It also needs to be a firm fit. Shake your head, does the helmet wobble in any plane?
– Firm does not mean tight! Any tight spots may add up to a head ache. Remember you will be wearing it for anything up to 6 hours a day.
– Try looking in the mirror, without pushing the helmet down on your head, can you move your eyebrows by moving the helmet? If yes, the helmet is nicely connected to your head in lots of spots. Therefore no voids and a reduced potential for the helmet hitting your head in an impact before it can absorb the blow.

It is worth remembering that different brands have different shapes so don’t get disheartened if the shape doesn’t work. There are plenty of brands out there. Once you know which shape works, it’s time to delve into that shape to find the colour that best suits your jacket!

Stay Safe,

Jimmy G



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A quick guide to choosing a windlass.

If you are considering purchasing a windlass then selecting the right model is critical for long term performance and ease of use. There are two common types of Windlass available as shown in the pictures below.

Vertical (below left) and horizontal (below right). This relates to the orientation of the axis around which the gypsy rotates.

Aesthetics: The deck footprint of a horizontal windlass is larger due to the entire unit being above deck. The vertical set-up reduces clutter on deck by hiding the motor and gear box in the chain locker. Mounting space in the chain locker must therefore be considered.

Gravity: The windlass is designed only for retrieving the ground tackle. It is gravity that stores the ground tackle. When all the ground tackle is on board, there must still be a minimum of 30cm (12 inches) of drop from the gypsy to the top of the pile. A horizontal windlass stands higher above the deck so the pile can theoretically be closer to the top of the chain locker.

Pulling power: Once you have decided upon the configuration then you can evaluate how much power you need. Lewmar and Lofrans offer two slightly different calculations  based on information they supply.

Lewmar suggest that the maximum pulling power of the windlass should be greater than 4 x the total ground tackle weight. So if your ground tackle weighs 50kg including your anchor chain and rode then the maximum pull of the windlass should be greater than 200kg.

Lofrans suggest that the total ground tackle weight should be 25% less than the specified working load limit of the windlass. If your ground tackle weighs 50kg then the specified working load limit of the windlass should be greater than 66.7 kg (divide the weight by 0.75).

Both brands offer guides on suitable vessel lengths for each model of windlass. This should be considered in conjunction with the ground tackle calculations and displacement variations from the accepted average for a vessel of a given length.

If you have any further questions, or would simply like us to help with your specifications then please get in touch via sales@jimmygreen.co.uk or give us a call on 01297 20744. Alternatively, feel free to view our windlass section here Windlasses.



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The Jimmy Green Clothing Store is Open

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store is open 7 days a week

We will be open everyday from Friday 21st November until Tuesday 23rd December 10.30am – 4.30pm

On Christmas Eve Beer shop will be open 10.30am – 3pm

There are offers in store and online, see our adverts in the Midweek Herald and the View From series of newspapers

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Clothing Shop Re-Opens 21st Nov

Beer Clothing Shop is currently CLOSED for Maintenance. Chandlery open as usual. More details on opening times

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Mega Rigging Sale

Save up to 35% – ENDS 30.11.14

MEGA RIGGING SALE – Save 35% on 1X19, Compact Dyform, Save 15% on Blocks, Save 30% on Warps, Sheets & Halyards.


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